Havasupai Day 1: Rocks, Rain, and Pizza—A Hiking Adventure Like No Other

Day 1 of our Havasupai adventure was equal parts exhilarating and exhausting. After a few hiccups along the way, we finally arrived at Hualapai Hilltop to begin our 8.75-mile hike down into the breathtaking Havasupai Village. But as they say, the journey isn’t always as smooth as the destination, and this day was no exception.

The Morning Hustle: Delays and Drama

We started the day early at Caverns Inn, with a planned 8:00 AM departure. But with a group of eight, things never go as planned—especially when you throw in a forgotten gas stop. So, after a brief detour to Peach Springs (since the Caverns Inn gas station was out of fuel), we hit the road around 9:30 AM. By the time we entered the Havasupai reservation, we had our first run-in with a local who wasn't thrilled to see us. After a few choice words—loudly yelling "God damnit"—he finally calmed down when I presented the necessary documents. Welcome to the adventure!

Once past that, we parked at the top of the canyon. The lot was packed, but we found plenty of spots along the road. We stopped for a quick bathroom break at the compost toilets, strapped on our packs, took in the jaw-dropping views of the Grand Canyon, and set off. It was finally happening.

The Rocky Trail: A Battle of Feet vs. Terrain

Now, let me tell you about this trail. "Rocky" doesn’t even begin to cover it. The first mile and a half consisted of steep, rocky switchbacks down the canyon wall, eventually opening into a dry riverbed that we’d follow for the next 6.5 miles. This riverbed was a minefield of rocks of all shapes and sizes. We’re talking boulders, tiny gravel, and ankle-twisting medium-sized rocks. It was a constant game of foot placement—every step calculated, careful, and slow.

I had chosen trail running shoes for the hike, thinking they’d offer a good balance of comfort and support. Big mistake. While they were comfortable, they didn’t provide the ankle support I needed for this treacherous terrain. I’m definitely going to be in the market for hiking boots after this trip. I had to go incredibly slow, focusing on each step, which started to aggravate my neuropathy—something I hadn’t experienced during training. It was a long, painful stretch, but with some encouragement from the others, we pressed on.

By the time we saw the sign marking the entrance to the village, I was beyond relieved. However, the sign was a bit of a cruel joke—it was still ¾ of a mile to the lodge! The group split up at this point; some of the faster hikers went ahead while I stuck with a couple of others who kept me company. At this pace, we finally made it to the lodge, but not without a few more minor setbacks.

The Lodge: A Welcoming Rest Stop (With a Few Surprises)

When we arrived at the lodge, I went to check us in, only to realize I had left my reservation confirmation on the dashboard of the car. Thankfully, they were able to look it up using my ID—whew! We got to our rooms, 20 and 21, and we were all pleasantly surprised. The rooms were simple, but comfortable. The girls’ room had been upgraded with fresh light blue bedding and cozy Tempurpedic-style queen beds. The room was equipped with a desk, microwave, mini fridge, and two chairs, which became our makeshift kitchen.

After a grueling hike, we were thankful for the chance to shower and recharge. But here’s the catch: The lodge had run out of hot water fairly quickly, and the showers didn’t deliver the warm relief we were hoping for. Still, it was a welcome break from the trail, and we didn’t let the cold water dampen our spirits.

Pizza: The Perfect End to a Challenging Day

After settling in, we called up Carlos—the local pizza guy who makes delicious pies using fresh ingredients in a wood-fired oven. We all gathered around one of the picnic tables outside, enjoying our first real meal of the day. The pizza was so good, and it felt like the perfect end to a challenging day.

The group, now fully energized by pizza and the view, decided to hike over to Navajo Falls. My feet were sore, and I knew I needed to rest, so I opted to stay behind. Though I felt a little FOMO when I saw their pictures of swimming in the falls, I was glad I listened to my body and stayed behind to relax. Sometimes, you’ve got to give your body the recovery it needs.

A Helicopter Decision: No Going Back

By the time I hit the final stretch of that rocky, painful trail, I made a mental note: When it comes time to leave, I’m paying the $100 to take the helicopter out. I don’t care if I have to get in line at 4:00 AM on the last day—there was no way I was going to hike out after that brutal experience. The thought of ascending 8.75 miles back up that canyon wall, battling the rocks and my tired legs, was enough to make me swear I’d find a way to avoid it. The helicopter option was looking more and more like the perfect escape.

Day 1 Stats:

• Total Miles: 10.4 miles (including some detours and off-trail walking)

• Elevation Gain: 35 feet

• Time Hiking: 4 hours and 3 minutes

• Hot Water Availability: Limited

• Helicopter Decision: 100% paying for the ride out

  
  

Final Thoughts:

By the end of the day, we were all exhausted but thrilled by the adventure we had just completed. It wasn’t the easiest start, and there were plenty of challenges along the way, but the excitement of being in Havasupai and the beauty of the canyon made it all worth it. Tomorrow would bring new adventures, and we were ready for whatever the trail had in store. But one thing was for sure—I was definitely taking the helicopter out.