Havasupai Hiking: Day 2 – Rain, Revelations, and Really Good Fry Bread
- Chelsea Edmiston
- Nov 7, 2024
- 4 min read
Waking Up to the Soundtrack of the Pacific Northwest
Day 2 started with that familiar pitter-patter that makes you wonder if you should just cocoon yourself in a sleeping bag and let the rain do its thing. Having lived in the Pacific Northwest, I’m basically certified in rain hiking, but my friends? Not so much. With the fresh memory of last month’s flash flood tragedy lurking in the back of our minds, we opted to kick off the morning slow. Breakfast was dehydrated eggs (don’t knock it till you try it) dressed up with Taco Bell hot sauce—truly a culinary masterpiece. I washed it down with my electrolyte-laced, chocolate-ish VitaCup coffee, which, surprisingly, did the trick. Gourmet? No. Effective? Absolutely.
A Glimpse Into Supai History
Before the church service, one of the villagers shared an incredible story that gave me chills. The Supai people have lived in this remote canyon for thousands of years, surviving and thriving as one of the most peaceful tribes in the region. Their approach to conflict? Avoid it at all costs. When neighboring tribes attacked, the women and children would flee into the cliffs, navigating the complex trails that only they knew well. The invaders, unfamiliar with the terrain, could never follow. Meanwhile, the male warriors would stay behind to defend the village. But this peace came at a heartbreaking cost—some female babies were sacrificed to ensure the tribe’s survival and their ability to protect future generations. It was a heavy story, one that added a layer of reverence to the place we were exploring.
A Spiritual Detour and Local Pride
We stepped into the church, where one of the elders welcomed us warmly. The stories shared there ranged from the translation of Genesis into Supai (a 40-year endeavor) to everyday tales of faith and resilience. One member even mentioned a book called Life in a Narrow Place, filled with historical insights about the tribe. As a bonus, two of the people sitting in the congregation were featured in it! One woman proudly offered to autograph it, which just goes to show how deeply connected and proud the community is of their heritage. Naturally, I’ve already ordered a copy and can’t wait to dive in when I get back home.
Compassion for Their Animals
One moment in the service struck a deep chord: when the community prayed for veterinarians to come with the right equipment and medications to care for their horses and dogs. I had read online reviews painting a bleak picture of animal neglect in the village, but after listening to the stories and seeing the genuine concern of the people, it was clear they love their animals. They just don’t have the resources needed for proper care. This moment was a powerful reminder that sometimes what looks like negligence is really a call for understanding and support. Compassion beats judgment every time, folks.
Small World Moment, Canyon Edition
In a wild twist, the pastor’s wife sported a sweatshirt from The Master’s University, a name that made my brain do a double-take. That university is right where I live, and it’s linked to my daughter’s school. Turns out, the pastor and his wife know the area well, which made this giant, remote canyon feel just a bit cozier.
Foodie Break: Supai Style
Once the rain paused, we hit the village café to taste some Supai specialties. I opted for the famous Supai taco—fry bread piled with ground beef, beans, lettuce, and tomatoes. Delicious? Yes. Healthy? Let’s just say my arteries would have words. A friend tried the dessert version with chocolate, cinnamon, sugar, and honey, which was next-level good. Definitely worth the extra calories.
Hiking to Havasu Falls: The Main Event
With full stomachs and clear skies (well, clear-ish), we set out for Havasu Falls. Knowing I’d be helicoptering out on the last day made me feel like I had a VIP pass to push my legs to their limit. When we reached the falls, it was like stepping into a postcard. The water was that mind-bending blue, courtesy of calcium carbonate, and the roar of the falls was pure, unfiltered nature at its finest.
We wasted no time stripping down to swimsuits and jumping in. The water? Arctic. I’m talking “full-body shock” cold. But once the tingling subsided, it was refreshing, almost like nature’s version of cryotherapy. Swimming felt like battling the open ocean thanks to the powerful current, so slow and steady was the name of the game. Trust me, those hiking sandals were lifesavers with the hidden rocks lurking beneath the surface.
Game Night: Uno Edition
Back at the lodge, we scarfed down MREs (I picked chili mac and cheese, a decision I’d soon regret). Showers were warm-ish, but we weren’t exactly holding out for spa-level comfort. The evening wrapped up with a raucous round of Uno played inside, complete with a toasty heater. Eight adults battling over a deck of Buzz Lightyear-themed Uno cards—it doesn’t get more high-stakes than that. Laughter, playful accusations of cheating, and the occasional “Draw 4” drama kept us going until we crashed early.
Stats of the Day:
Miles Hiked: 6.9
Elevation Gain: 506 ft
Weather: Rainy, then clear, then rainy again. Classic canyon drama.
Highlight: Swimming in the bluest, coldest water ever and bonding over Uno.
Day 2 was a mix of rain, revelations, and moments that make you grateful for both adventure and the warmth of human connection. And fry bread. Always fry bread.
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